are gray coats the unofficial uniform of kier?

analyzing the gray coats of severance + sourcing similar secondhand styles to shop.

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This post contains spoilers for Seasons 1 + 2 of Severance. Read in browser, may cut off in email.

Happy Spring Equinox! It was 70 degrees today, prime crop top weather. I was going to get some work done at the park after a hearty lunch of hainan chicken rice and iced red bean milk, but surrendered to the sedative lull of the heat…nature’s lorazepam :)

SO. The Severance finale last week. That was wild right?? We’ve been discussing it in the chat (White Lotus thread here), but suffice it to say I’m going through major withdrawal now that the season is over.

It’s been such a great show to read and write about. Not all shows are like that. Severance fans have developed a reputation for being obsessively detailed (and borderline annoying, lol) in their analyses, but I think it just speaks to the show’s deep level of world-building and self-mythology.

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Today’s newsletter is a deep dive on the gray coats of Severance, including links to similar secondhand styles.

As I was revisiting the costumes across both seasons, I noticed that every major woman character (specifically the outies if the character is severed) owns a gray coat. But there’s not much coverage on outie fashion online; the “onscreen fashion stories” I see usually focus on the corp-core style of the innies.

So I catalogued the gray coats worn by Gemma, Devon, Helena, and Ms. Cobel. At first glance they all sort of look the same…but there are subtle differences that speak volumes about their characters’ identities. Also, the dominance of gray and dark neutrals support the wintery muted palette of the show, lending greater significance to moments when a bright red or yellow is used.

Gabby Arteta is the only character with a CREAM winter coat-and-beanie ensemble, distinguishing her high status as a senator’s wife (vs a corporate exec kinda high status)

Reader, I already know your burning question: WHERE. ARE. THE. COATS. FROM?!

I’ve asked Sarah Edwards, the costume designer, but have not heard back. I promise to share any updates! Based on what I do know from folks involved in production, most of the clothing (and some of the furniture) is custom-made. Severance is not a listed show on resources like wornontv, and the coats are so nondescript/unbranded that Google Lens doesn’t help. There are a few exceptions though—for example, I found a Ulla Johnson coat Cobel wears in Season 1—discussed in the Honorable Mentions at the end of this piece.

For each coat, I include:

• an analysis of how each coat supports the character’s identity

• links to similar secondhand styles

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1. Gemma’s Cold Harbor Coat (also the Goodbye Coat)

Gemma is told to get dressed for her final test in the mysterious Cold Harbor room. She opens her Barbie closet and—omg it’s the coat and scarf she wore the last time she saw Mark. I could feel her shock at seeing this piece of her life before being imprisoned by Lumon.

The close zoom into the woolen fibers and marled stitches of the scarf emphasize the emotional tenderness of the clothes. It’s like seeing a well-loved teddy bear. It notably has texture, unlike her smooth Lululumon mint colored set.

Inside the Cold Harbor room, we see the full outfit which includes a floor-skimming baby flare jean. The shape of her coat is very relaxed and cozy; this is not some sharp-shouldered double-breasted coat you would wear to convey authority.

This is a comfort coat, a reclamation-of-humanity coat.

While not an exact match, this gorgeous Yohji Yamamoto coat is the closest I could find in terms of the slouchy dolman shape, thigh-skimming length and precise sleeve tailoring. Unfortunately, the numbers are scary (it’s $1300).

But here are some secondhand wool options under $155:

Most of these are from an Etsy seller who includes modeled photos of the coats. Helps a ton with understanding how it will fit!

1.) Vintage Gray Wool Mid-length Coat—Size M/L, $135

2.) Vintage Wool Gray Coat—Size M-XXL, $140

3.) Collarless Vintage Wool Gray Coat—Size S/M, $155

4.) Eileen Fisher Wool Coat—Size XL, $48

Keywords: charcoal/gray wool coat, dolman sleeve, drop sleeve.

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2. Devon’s Check Coat

Throughout the series, she’s been molded into a “voice of reason” type figure—though we develop suspicions about her motives from the moment she decides to call Cobel for help after Mark’s reintegration mess.

In the scene where Devon finally brings Mark to Cobel in the snowy woods, she wears a gray coat with a gridlike check pattern.

To me, the pattern represents rationality and logic. Mark is crashing out at this point, and Devon is the only one who can convince him to trust Cobel, or at least understand that he doesn’t have another choice if he wants to get Gemma out. Devon is a decisive character and doesn’t have a problem making executive decisions.

Notice how the coat has a slightly collarless/stand collar look. It’s unfussy, because Devon is getting shit done.

Found a few options from Margaret Howell.

While pricey ($~400), this one is my favorite of the checked coat bunch.

This is a men’s L, under $100. I am definitely partial to the mild color contrast of the gray on gray check, rather than a large checker pattern.

For a little more color and belted waist, here’s a size S for $140.

Tahari is also a brand worth searching. This one is a 2XL for $75.

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3. Helena’s Speckle Tweed Coat

In Season 1, outie Mark almost hits Helena with his car in the Lumon parking lot. This is an authoritative coat—a hint at her proximity to the upper management at Lumon. It’s long like a column, has more stiffness to it.

She’s also carrying these white roses that Milchik gives her to celebrate her first day of severance. I was getting strong funerary vibes from the look.

She goes “watch it!”

At this point we don’t know that Helly is Helena Egan on the outside, so this coat is actually a juicy hint when you realize that it matches…

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4. Cobel’s Matching Coat

Worn in Season 1 when she is fired from managing the severed floor. The speckle tweed pattern makes it look like the coat is covered in falling snow. I think it looks great with Cobel’s silver hair.

Seems like the high ranking women of Lumon all shop at the same place.

A handful of gray tweed/flecked coats to browse:

Agnes B. Loop Tweed Coat—Size M, $18

Agnes B. Dark Gray Wool Coat—S, $150

Vintage Agnes B. wool tweed coat—$100

I like this one with the faux fur collar—L, $41

Vintage Agnes B. wool tweed double breasted coat—M, $105

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*Honorable Mentions for Non-Gray Coats*

Mr. Milchik and Miss Huang’s ORTBO Coats

Their matching coats on the ORTBO were sooooo charming. What a duo. In season 3, I’d love to see Milchik and Huang reuniting to form an iconic Afro-Asian solidarity alliance to take Lumon down.

Here’s a size M for $164 from Jil Sander on TRR. The main keyword to search is shearling trim.

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Cobel’s Duffle Coat

The duffle coat has military origins dating back to 19th century England. It was worn by navy sailors, so rather fitting for Cobel’s side quest to her seaside hometown of Salt’s Neck. Paired with the plaid (almost tartan?) skirt, this outfit reflects her roots and upbringing. This looks like it could be a larger version of an outfit she probably wore as a child, stirring vats all day at Lumon :(

There are plenty of Margaret Howell duffle coats on Gem.

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Cobel’s Quilted Coat

This made me cackle. Season 1 Cobel gave us some deeply campy outfits, no??? With her silver space buns and kitschy star quilted coat, she looks like that Swedish immigrant American Girl doll from Minnesota (Kirsten? Kristen??). The goal is to appear non-threatening.

With the chunky art school necklace too? She is such a wolf in sheep’s clothing, wearing this unassuming “kooky fiber arts grandma” ensemble to infiltrate Petey’s funeral and retrieve the chip from his body.

I found a few versions of the exact coat online, but they’re not cheap.

Ulla Johnson quilted coat—S, $495

Ulla Johnson quilted coat—S, $800

Ulla Johnson Quilted Coat—M, $895

I recommend making a saved search for “Ulla Johnson quilted” and “SEA New York quilted” on your go-to secondhand platforms.

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What was your favorite coat moment in Severance?

Which character’s style did you like the most?

What shows are you watching to fill the void??

xoxo viv

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