my holy trinity of dark wash jeans
selvedge you can squat in? absolutely.
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Last week, a Molehill reader posted in the chat asking what categories of clothing we never buy secondhand.
For a newsletter that focuses heavily on secondhand and vintage, this might seem like an unexpected question. But for the seasoned secondhand shoppers, we know the categories that work for us—and the ones that don’t.
I knew my answer immediately—I rarely buy “vintage” jeans. Whenever I go secondhand shopping in person, I make a beeline for skirts, knits, and shoes. These are items I love buying secondhand because I am often rewarded for low effort browsing.
Jeans are a different story.
I always hit the denim rack last. The long wall of blue cotton fabric is overwhelming. Rarely any differentiation in prints or colors, so I’ll flip through each pair to eyeball the inseam and fabric composition while the plastic hangers make that horrid squeaky sound on the metal rack. I think this is a common experience—striking out with vintage denim shopping. You have to try on 30 pairs to find one that maybe fits the way you want.
For this reason, I tend to buy jeans new, where the measurements (inseam, most importantly!) are listed and returns are possible, or secondhand versions of jeans that I know are likely to fit. When I read jean recommendations online, I want in-depth fit reviews and styled photos because it gives me a more realistic idea of how it will fit on me.
So today I’m sharing my holy trinity of dark wash jeans (as a 5’2” person)—three reviews with photos, sizing tips, and why they work for me.
These are jeans I personally wear and can speak to the fit + quality firsthand.
I recognize that what works for me, doesn’t work well for everyone because our bodies come in all shapes and sizes. And I recognize that as a straight size person, I am privileged that denim brands make my size. For newsletter posts that cover firsthand plus size pant reviews, I recommend
’s “Thirty Pairs of Pants.”Disclosure: I may earn a small commission on purchases made through affiliate links (always above the paywall).
1). Nelle Atelier Barely Barrel Jean
As the name suggests, these are a barely-there barrel jean in a black, almost gray-ish denim (it is not a true black). Nelle Atelier is a small LA-based brand that specializes in denim for people 5’4” and under, with attention to knee placement and generally shorter leg proportions. My other pair from this brand is the Claire style, a relaxed mid-rise jean for casual errand days.
The material is 100% cotton and described as “rigid” online but I disagree—I actually find the fabric to be quite soft, as far as jeans go. I just wouldn’t describe these as a rigid jean at all. (Perhaps it’s because I’ve been wearing my Auralee Hard Twists too much? Found two of these for the secondhand sonar doc a few weeks ago FYI).
Back to the leg shape: this is why it excels as a dressy jean. They are neither tight nor loose. They are denim trousers. I’ve been styling it with feminine, floatier blouses, like this sheer silk one from D&G I got off Depop. There’s another one on Poshmark, though listed for 2x what I paid.
I think the value proposition in Nelle Atelier boils down to the fact that they get the inseam and knee placement right. Do they use the highest quality denim or craft weaving/dye methods? No. There are other brands that do materials better (and I’ll get to those below). But if you just want a nice looking contemporary cut jean that you don’t have to tailor, this brand meets your needs.
I especially do not want to mess around with hemming a barrel leg, because the proportions can get really weird depending on the volume and arc of the barrel!!
Sizing tip: these run smaller in the hips and butt than the Claire style, so size up for a comfortable, relaxed fit. I am wearing a 26. I am 5’2” and these hit right at the ankle.
Next up: the jeans I immediately texted my 5’2” friend about.
I mean, look at how crisp the drape is.
These dark wash wonders are