72 hours in mendocino
i spent my birthday in woods eating apple pie and stargazing in a hot tub.
There’s Northern California, and then there’s NORTHERN CALIFORNIA.
This is what I was thought as we passed through the apple orchards on our drive to up north to Mendocino last week. I cracked the passenger window open, just enough to let some fresh air in while keeping the rain drizzle out. The air was sharp, crisp, and pine-scented. In about 8 miles, we’d arrive at our lunch stop for burgers and apple hand pies. I rubbed my cashmere handwarmers together in gleeful anticipation.
There’s no shortage of scenic weekend trip options in Northern California, from the coast to wine country to the mountains. That said, I’m not a super outdoorsy camper or hiker…I’m more of a “let’s stroll along the bluffs in sunglasses and a headscarf and pretend we’re in Big Little Lies!!!!” So, for my birthday, my partner planned a long weekend trip for us in Mendocino—a charming Pacific coastal town I associate with blustery beaches and farm to table food (might not be the most well-seasoned, but it’s simple and fresh). We brought our dog, stayed at a rustic woodsy inn, and had the loveliest time.
Here’s a 3-day itinerary of where we stayed, what we ate, what we did etc. This will be especially useful if you are trying to plan a dog-friendly trip! Our priorities were (1) relaxing and (2) eating tasty food.
Saturday
12 noon—Load the car to hit the road. I used this Sezane tote (gifted) as a weekender bag because it’s very roomy and fit all my clothes + toiletries + journal + book. My approach to packing was mostly comfort-driven because I knew it’d be raining and we would be walking around outside a lot. Also, the vibe out there is really casual—Doen is basically formalwear. I did briefly browse Dronme’s Instagram feed for inspo, because she’s Mendocino’s fashion it girl. (I did not dress nearly as cool as her).
Car ride outfit colors. I love sleeve styling.
Pulled over at a turnout to wander among the redwood trees and take some photos. There are so few cars out here…it’s dead silent. I wore one pair of shoes the entire time—Merrell Jungle Mocs. Sturdy for rainy nature walks, and I think they look gorp-chic with jeans and skirts alike.
2pm—Two hours pass, and we’re stopping for lunch along the way at Jumbo’s Win Win. It’s in a town called Philo, which made me chuckle (because Phoebe Philo). The restaurant is like a roadside diner with retro decor inside. We shared a smashburger, a Japanese fried chicken sandwich, fries and a piping hot apple hand pie dusted with cinnamon sugar.
Was it the best burger I’ve ever had?
No, but something about the booth seating and flannel-clad patrons made the dining experience cinematic. The pie was exceptionally good though—like a fancy version of the $1 McDonalds pies back in the day. There’s a covered patio outside for dogs too.
Back in the car! One more hour to go.
3pm—Arrive at Little River Inn.
They describe their inn as being “perched” on the Pacific Ocean, which is accurate. You’re right on the water and the views are moody and spectacular in the best way.
Seasonal decor was on point.
We stayed at one of the cottages off the main property. It’s a two minute drive down the coastal road, and a turn into a long secluded road that easy to miss. It feels extremely off the grid.
The cottage owner, Mel, stopped by to greet us with a bottle of Mendocino Pinot Grigio. The yard opens up right into the woods. I saw wild mushrooms everywhere and a cottontail bunny even graced us with its presence.
Spent the afternoon relaxing at the cottage and cranked the fireplace. Opened the Pinot Grigio and devoured 8 chapters of my book.
6pm—Dinner at Fog Eater Cafe. This place brands themselves as “Southern Vegetarian” which I admit I normally would not go for, but the menu was so intriguing (and experimental compared to typical Mendocino fare) that I was like, we have to try it.
I was really impressed. The food is delicious and happens to be vegetarian (vs. food that is performatively vegetarian/trying to imitate the taste of meat too much). There was a pumpkin tamarind soup that tasted familiar, like an Indian curry, and the star of the menu is definitely the fried mushroom on mashed potatoes. Excellent use of herbs and spices all around.
My only regret is not committing to the dessert earlier. By the time we decided we did want to order the apple pie with miso caramel, our server kindly said we were just a little too late and the last one was gone. RIP!!!!! </3
Ended the night with fireplace + stargazing from the backyard hot tub.
Sunday
8am—Woke up early to take the dog out in the yard. Came back in to crank the fireplace and microwave some scant leftovers from Fog Eater for breakfast. Saw a deer.
11am—We want to wait for the pouring rain to stop before heading out for the day, but we got too hungry and drove to Good Life Cafe with the intention to sit down and eat. However, the line was crazy long and overstimulating so we ordered a veggie quiche and turmeric lemon hot toddy to go as a quick snack.
1pm—Rain slows down. We emerge from the cottage and drive 15 minutes to a nearby town, Fort Bragg. We get lunch at Princess Seafood. I thought the grilled oysters and crab sandwich were just meh, but the view of the harbor is the real draw. You can see harbor seals flipping around from the cozy perch of a heated, covered patio.
2pm—Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens. It’s very dreary but we are here and making the best of it! Our dog hates walking in the rain so she was pushed around in a covered stroller for 1.5 miles like the princess she is. The path takes you through a bunch of gardens, but the real treat is the bluffs at the end.
Sooooo Big Little Lies.
4pm—Head back to cottage to warm up and dry off. I take a shower and wash my hair because I hate the feeling of rained-on hair.
6pm—The weather has finally cleared up for the sunset. We drive to downtown Mendocino and walk around yet another grassy bluff area to enjoy the views and take some photos.
6:30pm—Dinner at Trillium Cafe. Remember what I said about the food being fresh and seasonal but not the most well-seasoned? That said, I did enjoy my pork chop with persimmon chutney…I just have personally made better pork chops! There was an apple slab pie on the dessert menu so of course we had to get it to make up for last night’s miss. The cinnamon-specked vanilla ice cream was really special.
Another fireplace + hot tub evening.
Monday
9am—Slept in a little more. Weather was actually gorgeous, sunny but chilly. I felt like an angel Christmas tree topper in my skirt and red cardigan. Packed up the car and checked out of the cottage.
10am—Tried going to Good Life Cafe again and this time there was no line (Monday perks!). Food hit the spot. I got the quiche again and a fluffy classic pancake.
11:30am—Noyo Headlands Park. Just perfect on a sunny day. I was taking in the quiet and peace.
1pm—Hit the road. Stopped at Gowan’s Oak Tree for a cup of hot apple cider. Skipped the actual apples, because I think the varieties at Monterey Market are just as good. The bags were cute though.
1:30pm—Stopped by Jumbo’s (again) for lunch. Tried the hot dog this time, which you’ll like if you’re into sour pickle/mustard flavors. Got two apple hand pies to bring home.
I remember when we got to Petaluma and started seeing more signs of dense civilizations and traffic I felt a pang of sadness…like, we’re back on the grid, back to the CITY MOUSE GRIND! Which I won’t complain about too much because it’s the lifestyle I chose, after all. But I am trying to reduce stimuli in my life right now. Less texting, slower email responses, long morning walks.
So long, Mendocino! Until next time.
Let me know in the comments if you have a favorite California weekend getaway spot! I especially want to know about the dog-friendly accommodations :)
xo viv
Thanks for being here. You can find me on IG and TT. My wardrobe pieces and recs are saved here—unless it’s vintage, of course ;)
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Sea Ranch is a great spot if you want super low stimulus. It’s sortof in the middle of nowhere so all you can really do is whale watch and read and go to bed at 9pm after finding interesting sticks on the beach all afternoon.
It’s been so surreal seeing my little hometown become such a popular destination over the past several years! Mendo is such a special place and it makes me so happy to see people experience how magical it can be.
Fog Eater is my absolute favorite of the newer restaurants, I highly recommend their brunch!! And Goodlife Cafe is one of the most classic Mendo spots.
for when you visit again, or for anyone who might be visiting soon, here are my top recs:
Cafe Beaujolais / The Waiting Room / The Brickery
(start the morning with a coffee from the waiting room, get a pizza lunch at the brickery and sit in the garden, pre-dinner cocktails at the waiting room, and then dinner at the beaujolais!)
Luna Trattoria
(love their pasta and eclectic decor. be warned if you tell them it’s your birthday the entire kitchen will come out and bang pans and sing at you)
Mendocino Market
(a true local’s spot. get the philly cheesesteak or pesto veggie sandwich)
Papa Bear’s Chocolate Haus (my first ever job!! lots of great housemade chocolates, fudge, and caramel apples)
Mendocino Jams & Preserves
(life changing olallieberry jam)
Sweetwater Inn & Spa
(right next door to Luna and the Beaujolais, so you can enjoy a private outdoor hot tub + sauna pre or post dinner!)
Gallery Bookshop
(adorable store but a must see just for their resident bookstore kitty, the Great Catsby)
As for Fort Bragg the food is pretty mid overall, but Noyo Fish Company is the best spot in the harbor imo, and Jenny’s Giant Burger serves an excellent basic cheeseburger (gotta ask for grilled onions)
And finally, the trip on Skunk Train out to Glen Blair Bar in the middle of the woods is amazing, especially around the holidays. Getting a little tipsy in the redwoods and riding an old timey train back to town while looking up at the stars is a lovely way to end the night.
ok info dump over 🫡 I just love my town and watching other people experience it :,)