The morning we left Rome, I got into the taxi and didn’t look back. The city was a lovely intro to Italy—and a trove for vintage shopping—but I was ready to go somewhere pastoral and quiet. A change of pace. A view of rolling hills and fluffy sheep. A pool where I could lounge and tuck into my book. I was also pretty thrilled to be reunited with the good ‘old American creature comfort that is an air-conditioned mini SUV. (Sorry not sorry).

Today’s newsletter is a recap of our 4 day itinerary through the Italian countryside:

• where we stayed and ate

• cool medieval towns and activities to book for day trips

• & a bit of personal news!

It’s bloated with photos that might cut off in email so read in browser for the best experience.

Day 1: Yogurt gelato is a religious experience in Spoleto.

From Rome, we drove to Umbria and decided to spend one night in Spoleto. There are plenty of small medieval towns in the countryside, but here’s what made Spoleto stand out:

(1) It’s artsy. They host this huge international event every summer called Festival dei Due Mondi. We weren’t there for it, but you can tell from walking around town that it’s a major cultural/economic engine for the town. During golden hour at the cathedral plaza, we saw a group of theatre kids doing a photoshoot in costumes that I can only describe as Catholic furry-meets-Michèle Lamy.

(2) It’s extremely pedestrian friendly. Out of all the medieval towns we visited, this had the most accessible infrastructure for anyone with mobility limitations. Or anyone who just hates hiking up steep hills in the heat!!! I’m in a much better mood when I’m not huffing and puffing up crumbling stone steps. The historic center is connected by a network of free underground walkalator/escalators. It was soooo nice to ride an escalator to the top of an ancient castle. They should make Spoleto a case study in urban planning school.

We stayed at Hotel dei Duchi. It was not particularly fancy but had all the comfort and amenities we needed to feel recharged. I slept a lot better here than in Rome.

The town is compact, so you can explore all of it in one day. Also love how un-crowded it was. I found myself more prone to wandering into shops “just to browse” and look at all the tasty cured meat I couldn’t bring home bc they would get 100% get flagged by the airport USDA beagles. Didn’t want to risk it.

This is also where we had the best gelato of our entire trip: Gelateria Crispini. Specifically, the YOGURT flavor. Omg. If you like tangier flavors or grew up drinking Yakult, you would love it! It was small shop with no line, but we later discovered that it won the top prize in the 2017 Gelato World Tour. It was so delicious I forgot to take a photo.

I felt energized enough to do a full face of ~golden hour makeup~ before dinner. Side note, can we talk about how much work it is to do makeup on vacation?! I swear it takes 2x longer. Different mirrors and counter space throw off my muscle memory, I suppose. Also sometimes my vacation brain lures me into trying something BOLD. Next thing I know I’m wetting some Q-Tips to wipe off 2cm of botched eyeliner.

Anyways, the products that did the heavy lifting were: layering two shades of blush (‘baby’ as a base and ‘flirty’ as a saturated highlight) and the trusty eadem lip balm in bissap glaze.

Ended the day with dinner at Pecchiarda, a restaurant we picked solely because they had grilled chicken on the menu. I never thought I would CRAVE something as basic as grilled chicken but it sounded really good after exclusively eating cured meat carbonaras in Rome. Also, when you live in the Bay Area, you get reverse sticker shock abroad—this 8 euro natural wine would easily cost $40 at a place like Verjus…

I couldn’t get over how the eggplant parmigiana looked like a butchered Hungry Caterpillar:

Day 2: In which I went to a remote medieval town and still saw a fashion hoe in Margiela tabis.

Left Spoleto in the morning and made a stop in Orvieto (another medieval town) on the way to Montepulciano where our farmstay was. You know what’s so crazy?

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Last week, I covered my top vintage recs in Rome, including a cheat sheet of Italian designers to search secondhand online.

Today’s city guide newsletter covers everything else:

• outfit diary of what I wore

• where I stayed, ate, and retail shopped (bonus for paid readers)

This post is very long and bloated with photos, so it might cut off in email.

OUTFITS

For daytime exploring, I rewore this outfit several times (our apartment had a washer and dryer). A cotton Cou Cou tank, a pale yellow silk skirt from Belle Anna, old Martiniano glove flats, and a suede Madewell tote bag. I tried to always incorporate some kind of accessory, which usually ended up being a Mondo Mondo star necklace and a silver ear cuff.

There’s a lot of RED around Rome—tomato sauce, Vespas, Catholic clergy outfits— that definitely influenced how I reached for pops of color.

For a brisk morning with light walking, I opted to layer a green &Daughter lambswool sweater (50% off rn) over my cotton tank. It actually was quite chilly at 8am and I was grateful for the extra layer. It was also time to debut my vintage purple mesh Vivienne Tam Buddha skirt (I ADORE THIS PIECE SO MUCH), and take advantage of a low step count outing with lace trim thong heels. They look good with skirts but are not the best on cobblestone…

For a retail blitz afternoon, I wanted to wear something a polished that would still allow me to move easily/change in and out of clothes at stores. This ice blue silk dress from Argent (gifted) falls soooo beautifully, but does not feel restrictive. I wore my silver Elsa Peretti bean locket to play up the cool tones.

It was a little windy out, so I’m glad I packed my beloved vintage trench.

For a brief pastry run near the apartment: my heatwave essential Cou Cou cotton dress, Casa Allyon leather clutch bag, Madewell bandana and star necklace.

For a dressy dinner out: a breathable Erica Tanov cotton sweater as a nighttime layer, this extremely joyful red Issey Miyake Ole! Skirt (gifted), star necklace, old Martiniano glove flats, Madewell suede tote.

The red theme continues. On this day, we woke up early for breakfast at Forno Conti and it was chilly out, so I wore a cotton long sleeve red tee over the Cou Cou cotton slip dress. Green socks and my trustiest Keen Jaspers for a day of marathon walking. Accessorized with my star necklace and bandana.

When I started accumulating vintage pieces on my trip, I couldn’t wait to wear them, so the in unit laundry came in soooo handy. Here I am in a vintage MaxMara silk wrap top, the Vivienne Tam Buddha skirt, and lace trim thong sandals.

More recs below the fold: where I stayed, ate, and retail shopped.

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My corner of the internet is abuzz over the Baggu x Sandy Liang 2.0 collab coming out today (9am online, 10am in stores—good luck, godspeed). The Terminator bunny is my favorite print because it’s a cheeky nod to the knockoff Gucci/LV bags sold on Canal Street.

As a paid reader perk, I’m raffling away 3 of the blue market plaid pieces from the PR package I received but realistically won’t use: the large market bag, the large pouch, and the standard Baggu.

To enter, just leave a comment below sharing one thing on your summer 2026 bucket list. I will select 3 winners by next Wednesday by responding in the comments; each winner will receive one of the 3 items.

Over the next month, I’ll be sharing several travel/city guide newsletters recapping my time in Italy. We’re kicking it off today with the Molehill vintage lover’s guide to Rome.

Dare I say Rome is my all-time favorite city for vintage shopping?

It exceeded my expectations, both in terms of the selection/curation and how many things I ended up actually purchasing. I think it boils down to two main reasons:

• Vintage clothes and jewelry in Rome tend to be aligned with my personal style—colorful, expressive, and funky! Lots of prints and drama. Comparisons to shopping in Tokyo kept coming to mind…while I enjoy vintage shopping in Japan and have found some gems, the overall selection at a standard secondhand store leans Americana and workwear, which I’m less drawn to.

• The sense of antiquity in Rome permeates the air. You are surrounded by ancient ruins and monuments; you can’t help but marvel at how old things have endured through time. It puts you in the mood to sift through 15 trays of costume jewelry and appreciate the past lives of objects. Vintage shopping in the Eternal City…how romantic!

This guide covers my top vintage recs in Rome, including what the selection is like at each shop, and what I actually spent $ on.

I also want this guide to feel engaging and useful even if you are not visiting Rome!

So, I’ve included an “Italian vintage brand cheat sheet” at the end of the newsletter with brand names and keywords to search online. If the vintage piece I bought had a tag with a brand name on it, it’s included on the list. Also, some of the stores I mention offer online/IG Story shopping.

1. Cavalli e Nastri

140 Via del Boschetto (also locations in Milan and Madrid)

I stumbled upon this shop in the most memorable way. After a breakfast of pizza bianca and green tea, I was wandering around the ivy-covered streets of Monti taking pictures.

Then I saw a blue pleated blur on a store window mannequin and thought…wait a minute…is that an Issey Miyake set???

I waited for a roaring Vespa to pass before bounding across the street. Lo and behold—yes it was!

Unfortunately, the shop had not opened yet, so I stared longingly at the Pleats Please set, locked behind blue metal bars. From what I could see on the racks, the store appeared to be curated with vintage designer labels. I had an awkward 35 minutes to kill, so I walked back to the vacation rental apartment to charge my phone before coming back right at opening time.

You can expect to find lots of designer labels here. Strong selection of Prada, Rick Owens, Dries, and Cavalli. There’s also a focus on Italian designer costume jewelry from the 70s-90s.

I ended up buying a crimson red silk Alberta Ferretti top and a 1970s fuzzy green purse from a Florence-based designer called Scheilan. The top actually came as a set with a skirt, but the skirt was too big and the design wasn’t quite conducive to tailoring, so I asked the shop lady if she would sell it separately with an adjusted price and she said yes :)

Beyond the paywall, five more stores—

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I’ve spent winter break testing out all the beauty products I scooped in Japan, and made a list of which ones are worth the hype.

Taking account of everything I bought was a bit sobering. Not in a bad or guilty way. It’s just that I kinda mentally blacked out when I was doing the actual shopping, and then everything was packed away in those tax-free plastic bags until I got home.

It wasn’t until I cut open the bags and lined up all my lip glosses and blushes neatly on the kitchen table that I could truly comprehend the scope of my shopping spree.

And about that spree! It took place at a fluorescently-lit Cosme store (similar to Sephora). I had 2 hours before dinner and was determined to make the most of it. I remember sweating through my down puffer jacket, darting between narrow aisles with my increasingly heavy basket, eyes flickering frantically between shimmery grids of eyeshadow pots and pictures of sun-kissed monolidded models like an deer in flight or fight mode.

As it happens, Nina Park makeup was trending online in December, at the same time I was testing out my new makeup.

Park is a makeup artist known for doing these really flushed, pouty looks on celebrities like Greta Lee, Lily Rose Depp, Margaret Qualley, Zoe Kravitz, all the Hollywood it girls of the moment etc.

I latched onto this Greta Lee look because (1) it’s a helpful template for East Asian features and (2) I love the blush + freckle effect. This is my ideal makeup!!!

After two weeks of practice, I feel like I’ve nailed the Nina Park beat (to my own level of satisfaction, at least!).

So I’m going to walk you through all my steps and tricks, which heavily feature the makeup I got in Japan. This is how I plan to do my NYE makeup, but I’ll add a swipe of glittery eyeshadow.

You definitely do not need anything I mention—I’m sure a similar effect can be achieved with whatever you already have in your makeup bag—but, these are products that make a big difference, in my opinion.

There are no affiliate links in this post: while many products are available through online retailers like Yesstyle and Stylevana, I’ve never used those websites myself, and they don’t carry all the colorways I mention. I cannot vouch for any one specific online shopping experience.

Ultimately, this guide is best suited for an IRL shopping experience. Whether it’s at a local store that carries makeup from Asia (fingers crossed for Tokyo Central Market opening in Emeryville) or an upcoming Japan trip (you’ll get far better prices than online), these are the game-changing products I recommend.

Top highlights include:

• the blush that Jenna Lyons would have her makeup artists bring back from Japan, according to Marisa Meltzer’s book ‘Glossy’

• the most reflective highlighter I’ve tried

• a pigmented lip liquid that is SO perfect for the Nina Park pout, I’m 100% going to restock on this every chance I get

• a foundation brush-meets-design object that works especially well for lower nose bridges

Ok, first up is:

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It’s a blast.

But, it’s also a test of endurance.

A typical Tokyo day easily adds up to 20K+ steps, sore feet and back pain. And that’s just the physical element…navigating the sheer number of stores and browsing through racks requires a great deal of mental fortitude. I mean, there’s just so much STUFF to look at, so many decisions to make.

Even the most focused among us can easily get lost in the sauce.

So, this my guide to shopping smart in Tokyo.

• Disclaimer: I am not an expert on the Japanese retail scene. My perspective is just that of a highly observant American tourist. This probably won’t be very applicable if you’re a local or seasoned visitor.

• This guide covers the most common types of shopping environments. We’re talking about places like department stores, Uniqlo, secondhand clothing chains such as Kindal and 2nd Street, Don Quijote. I am aware that this does not represent the entire universe of shopping there! But realistically, that’s where most of us are getting souvenirs and accessibly-priced items.

• At the end, I share my list of specific/niche shopping recommendations.

• I’m working on a separate newsletter focused solely on what makeup is worth buying. Currently testing out products for you.

It’s a long read today, put on your best walking shoes and let’s get started :)

The Department Stores

Some of the big names to know:

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I’m writing to you from a hotel bed in Tokyo right now. It’s 6pm and I just took a boiling hot shower after trekking around the city for 11 hours straight in orthopedic potato shoes and a pack mule crossbody tote. My partner is out on a nighttime photography blitz, and once he’s done we’re going to get burgers at one of those delightfully kitschy Americana-themed diners with pinup girl posters and Coca-Cola signs on the walls.

Anyways. It feels mind-blowingly euphoric to be horizontal in sweatpants (how I have missed these sedentary American pastimes). I also knew I would miss writing, so I brought my laptop even though there’s very little downtime for it.

More travel newsletters to come after I return, but I wanted to kick it off with my “flight log” from SFO to Narita airport because The Flight There totally sets the tone for a trip, doesn’t it??

Come fly across the Pacific Ocean with me.

7:30am

Taking BART to SFO during rush hour. The florescent lighting and pre-flight anxiety is making me nauseous. I feel a wave of intestinal discomfort, but if I lock in and clench my entire body the feeling passes for a few minutes. The train screeching is also making me feel evil.

I never wear baseball caps, but for some reason I was called to this green one from Freda Salvador I got in a gift bag thing last month. My bangs are itchy against my forehead so I kind of regret it.

The bowel emergency feeling subsides by the time we pass Glen Park. The sun comes out and I guess my circadian rhythms are like ohhhhh ok it’s safe to be awake now. My face skin feels dry and tight.

8:10am

For a major airport, SFO is actually super quiet. It’s sooooo nice. I get a brief surge of local pride. We pull up to the Japan Airlines counter and check in our luggage.

I whip out my passport in preparation for security. The photo is giving mega catfish vibes because I had such a distinct haircut back then. One time, a TSA agent told me with a completely serious tone that I looked like I was in the Matrix. I thought I was in trouble or something. He probably sensed my panic and said I’M JOKING and laughed, and then I fake laughed nervously.

8:25am

SFO having hot water dispensers (140 Farenheit) is soooo tea. We top off our Zojirushi thermos and find our gate to make sure it exists.

9:30am

I did something wasteful.

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There’s Northern California, and then there’s NORTHERN CALIFORNIA.

This is what I was thought as we passed through the apple orchards on our drive to up north to Mendocino last week. I cracked the passenger window open, just enough to let some fresh air in while keeping the rain drizzle out. The air was sharp, crisp, and pine-scented. In about 8 miles, we’d arrive at our lunch stop for burgers and apple hand pies. I rubbed my cashmere handwarmers together in gleeful anticipation.

There’s no shortage of scenic weekend trip options in Northern California, from the coast to wine country to the mountains. That said, I’m not a super outdoorsy camper or hiker…I’m more of a “let’s stroll along the bluffs in sunglasses and a headscarf and pretend we’re in Big Little Lies!!!!” So, for my birthday, my partner planned a long weekend trip for us in Mendocino—a charming Pacific coastal town I associate with blustery beaches and farm to table food (might not be the most well-seasoned, but it’s simple and fresh). We brought our dog, stayed at a rustic woodsy inn, and had the loveliest time.

Here’s a 3-day itinerary of where we stayed, what we ate, what we did etc. This will be especially useful if you are trying to plan a dog-friendly trip! Our priorities were (1) relaxing and (2) eating tasty food.

Saturday

12 noon—Load the car to hit the road. I used this Sezane tote (gifted) as a weekender bag because it’s very roomy and fit all my clothes + toiletries + journal + book. My approach to packing was mostly comfort-driven because I knew it’d be raining and we would be walking around outside a lot. Also, the vibe out there is really casual—Doen is basically formalwear. I did briefly browse Dronme’s Instagram feed for inspo, because she’s Mendocino’s fashion it girl. (I did not dress nearly as cool as her).

Car ride outfit colors. I love sleeve styling.

Pulled over at a turnout to wander among the redwood trees and take some photos. There are so few cars out here…it’s dead silent. I wore one pair of shoes the entire time—Merrell Jungle Mocs. Sturdy for rainy nature walks, and I think they look gorp-chic with jeans and skirts alike.

2pm—Two hours pass, and we’re stopping for lunch along the way at Jumbo’s Win Win. It’s in a town called Philo, which made me chuckle (because Phoebe Philo). The restaurant is like a roadside diner with retro decor inside. We shared a smashburger, a Japanese fried chicken sandwich, fries and a piping hot apple hand pie dusted with cinnamon sugar.

Was it the best burger I’ve ever had?

No, but something about the booth seating and flannel-clad patrons made the dining experience cinematic. The pie was exceptionally good though—like a fancy version of the $1 McDonalds pies back in the day. There’s a covered patio outside for dogs too.

Back in the car! One more hour to go.

3pm—Arrive at Little River Inn.

They describe their inn as being “perched” on the Pacific Ocean, which is accurate. You’re right on the water and the views are moody and spectacular in the best way.

Seasonal decor was on point.

We stayed at one of the cottages off the main property. It’s a two minute drive down the coastal road, and a turn into a long secluded road that easy to miss. It feels extremely off the grid.

The cottage owner, Mel, stopped by to greet us with a bottle of Mendocino Pinot Grigio. The yard opens up right into the woods. I saw wild mushrooms everywhere and a cottontail bunny even graced us with its presence.

Spent the afternoon relaxing at the cottage and cranked the fireplace. Opened the Pinot Grigio and devoured 8 chapters of my book.

6pm—Dinner at Fog Eater Cafe. This place brands themselves as “Southern Vegetarian” which I admit I normally would not go for, but the menu was so intriguing (and experimental compared to typical Mendocino fare) that I was like, we have to try it.

I was really impressed. The food is delicious and happens to be vegetarian (vs. food that is performatively vegetarian/trying to imitate the taste of meat too much). There was a pumpkin tamarind soup that tasted familiar, like an Indian curry, and the star of the menu is definitely the fried mushroom on mashed potatoes. Excellent use of herbs and spices all around.

My only regret is not committing to the dessert earlier. By the time we decided we did want to order the apple pie with miso caramel, our server kindly said we were just a little too late and the last one was gone. RIP!!!!! </3

Ended the night with fireplace + stargazing from the backyard hot tub.

Sunday

8am—Woke up early to take the dog out in the yard. Came back in to crank the fireplace and microwave some scant leftovers from Fog Eater for breakfast. Saw a deer.

11am—We want to wait for the pouring rain to stop before heading out for the day, but we got too hungry and drove to Good Life Cafe with the intention to sit down and eat. However, the line was crazy long and overstimulating so we ordered a veggie quiche and turmeric lemon hot toddy to go as a quick snack.

1pm—Rain slows down. We emerge from the cottage and drive 15 minutes to a nearby town, Fort Bragg. We get lunch at Princess Seafood. I thought the grilled oysters and crab sandwich were just meh, but the view of the harbor is the real draw. You can see harbor seals flipping around from the cozy perch of a heated, covered patio.

2pm—Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens. It’s very dreary but we are here and making the best of it! Our dog hates walking in the rain so she was pushed around in a covered stroller for 1.5 miles like the princess she is. The path takes you through a bunch of gardens, but the real treat is the bluffs at the end.

Sooooo Big Little Lies.

4pm—Head back to cottage to warm up and dry off. I take a shower and wash my hair because I hate the feeling of rained-on hair.

6pm—The weather has finally cleared up for the sunset. We drive to downtown Mendocino and walk around yet another grassy bluff area to enjoy the views and take some photos.

6:30pm—Dinner at Trillium Cafe. Remember what I said about the food being fresh and seasonal but not the most well-seasoned? That said, I did enjoy my pork chop with persimmon chutney…I just have personally made better pork chops! There was an apple slab pie on the dessert menu so of course we had to get it to make up for last night’s miss. The cinnamon-specked vanilla ice cream was really special.

Another fireplace + hot tub evening.

Monday

9am—Slept in a little more. Weather was actually gorgeous, sunny but chilly. I felt like an angel Christmas tree topper in my skirt and red cardigan. Packed up the car and checked out of the cottage.

10am—Tried going to Good Life Cafe again and this time there was no line (Monday perks!). Food hit the spot. I got the quiche again and a fluffy classic pancake.

11:30am—Noyo Headlands Park. Just perfect on a sunny day. I was taking in the quiet and peace.

1pm—Hit the road. Stopped at Gowan’s Oak Tree for a cup of hot apple cider. Skipped the actual apples, because I think the varieties at Monterey Market are just as good. The bags were cute though.

1:30pm—Stopped by Jumbo’s (again) for lunch. Tried the hot dog this time, which you’ll like if you’re into sour pickle/mustard flavors. Got two apple hand pies to bring home.

I remember when we got to Petaluma and started seeing more signs of dense civilizations and traffic I felt a pang of sadness…like, we’re back on the grid, back to the CITY MOUSE GRIND! Which I won’t complain about too much because it’s the lifestyle I chose, after all. But I am trying to reduce stimuli in my life right now. Less texting, slower email responses, long morning walks.

So long, Mendocino! Until next time.

Let me know in the comments if you have a favorite California weekend getaway spot! I especially want to know about the dog-friendly accommodations :)

xo viv

Thanks for being here. You can find me on IG and TT. My wardrobe pieces and recs are saved here—unless it’s vintage, of course ;)

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