I’ve spent winter break testing out all the beauty products I scooped in Japan, and made a list of which ones are worth the hype.

Taking account of everything I bought was a bit sobering. Not in a bad or guilty way. It’s just that I kinda mentally blacked out when I was doing the actual shopping, and then everything was packed away in those tax-free plastic bags until I got home.

It wasn’t until I cut open the bags and lined up all my lip glosses and blushes neatly on the kitchen table that I could truly comprehend the scope of my shopping spree.

And about that spree! It took place at a fluorescently-lit Cosme store (similar to Sephora). I had 2 hours before dinner and was determined to make the most of it. I remember sweating through my down puffer jacket, darting between narrow aisles with my increasingly heavy basket, eyes flickering frantically between shimmery grids of eyeshadow pots and pictures of sun-kissed monolidded models like an deer in flight or fight mode.

As it happens, Nina Park makeup was trending online in December, at the same time I was testing out my new makeup.

Park is a makeup artist known for doing these really flushed, pouty looks on celebrities like Greta Lee, Lily Rose Depp, Margaret Qualley, Zoe Kravitz, all the Hollywood it girls of the moment etc.

I latched onto this Greta Lee look because (1) it’s a helpful template for East Asian features and (2) I love the blush + freckle effect. This is my ideal makeup!!!

After two weeks of practice, I feel like I’ve nailed the Nina Park beat (to my own level of satisfaction, at least!).

So I’m going to walk you through all my steps and tricks, which heavily feature the makeup I got in Japan. This is how I plan to do my NYE makeup, but I’ll add a swipe of glittery eyeshadow.

You definitely do not need anything I mention—I’m sure a similar effect can be achieved with whatever you already have in your makeup bag—but, these are products that make a big difference, in my opinion.

There are no affiliate links in this post: while many products are available through online retailers like Yesstyle and Stylevana, I’ve never used those websites myself, and they don’t carry all the colorways I mention. I cannot vouch for any one specific online shopping experience.

Ultimately, this guide is best suited for an IRL shopping experience. Whether it’s at a local store that carries makeup from Asia (fingers crossed for Tokyo Central Market opening in Emeryville) or an upcoming Japan trip (you’ll get far better prices than online), these are the game-changing products I recommend.

Top highlights include:

• the blush that Jenna Lyons would have her makeup artists bring back from Japan, according to Marisa Meltzer’s book ‘Glossy’

• the most reflective highlighter I’ve tried

• a pigmented lip liquid that is SO perfect for the Nina Park pout, I’m 100% going to restock on this every chance I get

• a foundation brush-meets-design object that works especially well for lower nose bridges

Ok, first up is:

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It’s a blast.

But, it’s also a test of endurance.

A typical Tokyo day easily adds up to 20K+ steps, sore feet and back pain. And that’s just the physical element…navigating the sheer number of stores and browsing through racks requires a great deal of mental fortitude. I mean, there’s just so much STUFF to look at, so many decisions to make.

Even the most focused among us can easily get lost in the sauce.

So, this my guide to shopping smart in Tokyo.

• Disclaimer: I am not an expert on the Japanese retail scene. My perspective is just that of a highly observant American tourist. This probably won’t be very applicable if you’re a local or seasoned visitor.

• This guide covers the most common types of shopping environments. We’re talking about places like department stores, Uniqlo, secondhand clothing chains such as Kindal and 2nd Street, Don Quijote. I am aware that this does not represent the entire universe of shopping there! But realistically, that’s where most of us are getting souvenirs and accessibly-priced items.

• At the end, I share my list of specific/niche shopping recommendations.

• I’m working on a separate newsletter focused solely on what makeup is worth buying. Currently testing out products for you.

It’s a long read today, put on your best walking shoes and let’s get started :)

The Department Stores

Some of the big names to know:

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I’m writing to you from a hotel bed in Tokyo right now. It’s 6pm and I just took a boiling hot shower after trekking around the city for 11 hours straight in orthopedic potato shoes and a pack mule crossbody tote. My partner is out on a nighttime photography blitz, and once he’s done we’re going to get burgers at one of those delightfully kitschy Americana-themed diners with pinup girl posters and Coca-Cola signs on the walls.

Anyways. It feels mind-blowingly euphoric to be horizontal in sweatpants (how I have missed these sedentary American pastimes). I also knew I would miss writing, so I brought my laptop even though there’s very little downtime for it.

More travel newsletters to come after I return, but I wanted to kick it off with my “flight log” from SFO to Narita airport because The Flight There totally sets the tone for a trip, doesn’t it??

Come fly across the Pacific Ocean with me.

7:30am

Taking BART to SFO during rush hour. The florescent lighting and pre-flight anxiety is making me nauseous. I feel a wave of intestinal discomfort, but if I lock in and clench my entire body the feeling passes for a few minutes. The train screeching is also making me feel evil.

I never wear baseball caps, but for some reason I was called to this green one from Freda Salvador I got in a gift bag thing last month. My bangs are itchy against my forehead so I kind of regret it.

The bowel emergency feeling subsides by the time we pass Glen Park. The sun comes out and I guess my circadian rhythms are like ohhhhh ok it’s safe to be awake now. My face skin feels dry and tight.

8:10am

For a major airport, SFO is actually super quiet. It’s sooooo nice. I get a brief surge of local pride. We pull up to the Japan Airlines counter and check in our luggage.

I whip out my passport in preparation for security. The photo is giving mega catfish vibes because I had such a distinct haircut back then. One time, a TSA agent told me with a completely serious tone that I looked like I was in the Matrix. I thought I was in trouble or something. He probably sensed my panic and said I’M JOKING and laughed, and then I fake laughed nervously.

8:25am

SFO having hot water dispensers (140 Farenheit) is soooo tea. We top off our Zojirushi thermos and find our gate to make sure it exists.

9:30am

I did something wasteful.

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count me in

There’s Northern California, and then there’s NORTHERN CALIFORNIA.

This is what I was thought as we passed through the apple orchards on our drive to up north to Mendocino last week. I cracked the passenger window open, just enough to let some fresh air in while keeping the rain drizzle out. The air was sharp, crisp, and pine-scented. In about 8 miles, we’d arrive at our lunch stop for burgers and apple hand pies. I rubbed my cashmere handwarmers together in gleeful anticipation.

There’s no shortage of scenic weekend trip options in Northern California, from the coast to wine country to the mountains. That said, I’m not a super outdoorsy camper or hiker…I’m more of a “let’s stroll along the bluffs in sunglasses and a headscarf and pretend we’re in Big Little Lies!!!!” So, for my birthday, my partner planned a long weekend trip for us in Mendocino—a charming Pacific coastal town I associate with blustery beaches and farm to table food (might not be the most well-seasoned, but it’s simple and fresh). We brought our dog, stayed at a rustic woodsy inn, and had the loveliest time.

Here’s a 3-day itinerary of where we stayed, what we ate, what we did etc. This will be especially useful if you are trying to plan a dog-friendly trip! Our priorities were (1) relaxing and (2) eating tasty food.

Saturday

12 noon—Load the car to hit the road. I used this Sezane tote (gifted) as a weekender bag because it’s very roomy and fit all my clothes + toiletries + journal + book. My approach to packing was mostly comfort-driven because I knew it’d be raining and we would be walking around outside a lot. Also, the vibe out there is really casual—Doen is basically formalwear. I did briefly browse Dronme’s Instagram feed for inspo, because she’s Mendocino’s fashion it girl. (I did not dress nearly as cool as her).

Car ride outfit colors. I love sleeve styling.

Pulled over at a turnout to wander among the redwood trees and take some photos. There are so few cars out here…it’s dead silent. I wore one pair of shoes the entire time—Merrell Jungle Mocs. Sturdy for rainy nature walks, and I think they look gorp-chic with jeans and skirts alike.

2pm—Two hours pass, and we’re stopping for lunch along the way at Jumbo’s Win Win. It’s in a town called Philo, which made me chuckle (because Phoebe Philo). The restaurant is like a roadside diner with retro decor inside. We shared a smashburger, a Japanese fried chicken sandwich, fries and a piping hot apple hand pie dusted with cinnamon sugar.

Was it the best burger I’ve ever had?

No, but something about the booth seating and flannel-clad patrons made the dining experience cinematic. The pie was exceptionally good though—like a fancy version of the $1 McDonalds pies back in the day. There’s a covered patio outside for dogs too.

Back in the car! One more hour to go.

3pm—Arrive at Little River Inn.

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